A rather sardonic and world weary Charles II
observed the Goedhuis tasting @ The Philip Mould Gallery in Pall Mall
£48,000 will secure this Charlie
This is the week that the London tasting scene really kicks back in with a vengeance following the break from late November as merchants and importers concentrate on their festive sales. The accent in this first week is very firmly on Burgundy. At least 20 en primeur Burgundy tastings are crammed into these five days.
There will be keenies like Tim Atkin MW, Matt Walls and scribes for Jancis Robinson MW Global Purple Pages Inc, who will be scurrying from one tasting venue to the next prior to producing comprehensive reports and assessments on 2015 Burgundy. Some of these scribes will already have spent time late autumn in Burgundy tasting the 2015 with also an early look at 2016 at the same time.
This week is often an opportunity to see the occasionally spotted Michel Bettane in London. Indeed, despite the city’s 24 hour tube strike yesterday the great man was at one of the best of these Burgundy tastings – Goedhuis & Co.
Given the price of some Burgundy today – Vide Bourse 1er Cru –
is a wonderfully appropriate lieu-dit
£445 x 12 (in bond)
Lea & Sandeman
Fortunately I don’t have to follow scribes on their Burgundy treadmill. I tend to pick three tastings to attend, which will give me an opportunity to get an impression of the vintage and to taste wines, admittedly many not yet in bottle, that I cannot afford to buy – six bottles of Maison Roche de Bellène’s 2015 Chambertin Grand Cru at £1550 is a fraction above my budget even if the 2015 does have concentration and delicate power…… I knew I should have opted to be a top footballer!
I went to Goedhuis & Co (tasting mainly reds) and Lea & Sandeman (tasting whites only) on Monday and, on Thursday, will be at Haynes Hanson & Clark.
I thought that many of the reds were very attractive with plenty of seductive fruit – mainly red fruit but some black, too. At this stage a lot of the wines, even the Premier and Grand Crus, appeared to be ready to drink young. I was less taken with the whites, many with crowd pleasing roundness but with some lacking balancing raciness in the finish.
A small selection from the wines that I enjoyed (all prices in bond):
Marsannay Les Longeroises, Domaine Charles Audion
Attractive easy drinking – £240 (12 bottles)
Goedhuis & Co
Fixin Vieilles Vignes, Denis Mortet
Attractive texture, seductive wine
£180 (6 bottles)
Auxey-Duresses, Comte Armand
Red fruits and ready to drink fairly early.
£298 (12 b
Charmes Chambertin Grand Cru, Domaine Geantet-Pansiot
Lovely silky texture, structure and length.
£650 (6 bottles)
La Princée, Saint-Aubin, Hubert Lamy
Quite austere but with some concentration and balance
£210 (12 bottles)
Lea & Sandeman
Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Clos de la Chatenière Vieilles Vignes, Hubert Lamy
Lovely texture, mouthfilling concentration and length
£350 (12 bottles)
Lea & Sandeman
2015 Meursault 1er Cru Les Genevrières, Domaine Rémi Jobard
Sexy and seductive
£670 (12 bottles)