Les 5 du Vin

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A journey to precision: vertical of Closel’s Clos du Papillon

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Evelyne de Pontbriand tutoring the vertical tasting 

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Tasters in the magnificent surroundings of the Château des Vaults
(Domaine du Domaine de Closel)

On the evening of Monday 6th February – the second day of the Salon des Vins de Loire – we were invited to a vertical tasting of the Domaine du Closel’s Clos du Papillon. The vertical ran from 2001 through to 2015 but without 2012 as none was made due to frost. We tasted from oldest to youngest, which made perfect sense as we could see the evolution in the purity and precision in the wines. At the end we were treated to two older bottles – 1992, which was not a very auspicious vintage, and 1989, which was a great vintage.

2001 was the first vintage that Evelyne took over from her mother –Michèle Bazin de Jessey. The Clos du Papillon overlooks the small village of Savennières sited just to the north.

Although the vineyards were grassed over when Evelyne took over, the vineyards were farmed and the wine made in a traditional manner. The wines tended to have a short fermentation and be given high doses of SO2. The period of fermentation has been extended and the vinification is now  in 400-litre barrels when before it was done in vat. Cover crops are now an essential part of the vineyard management.

Since 2001 Evelyne has taken Closel has moved from being traditional to firstly organic and now to being farmed biodynamically.  Conversion to organic viticulture began in 2006 with full certification in 2009, while biodynamic status was achieved in 2015.

Yields have been reduced from 35/40 hl/ha down to 15-20hl/ha today. From 2009 they have using a software system to analyse the exactly the right time to pick the grapes.

The vertical:

2001:
Light golden colour, honey and truffle, some texture but a little short.

2002:
Light to mid-gold, clearly taken on a lot of colour, honeyed evolved flavours, rich with fair balance. Loire wines from 2002 tend to be well-balanced. 6.4 gms of residual sugar. Among my favourites.

2003:
Honey and quince, rich but less interesting than the 2002 – an effect of this heatwave year?

2004:
Delicate honey aromas, attractively finely textured wine although a little dilute in the finish but considerable charm.

2005:
Deep light gold colour, richly textured, botrytis – this is a rich oxidative style.
Hot dry summer and autumn.

2006:
Light gold colour, attractively textured wine with honeyed evolution, good length and nicely balanced. Among my favourites.

2007: 
Light gold, honey and quince flavour with a touch of caramel, textured wine, the richness hides the acidity but the finish is a little short.

2008:
Vineyard frosted. Honey and quince on nose and palate,some truffle too, texture, quite austere long finish. Aromas persist in the empty glass.Among my favourites.

2009:
Clean and precise with attractively vibrant texture, some honey character, noticeable acidity in long finish. There is a growing precision in the Papillon wines.

2010:
Richly and seductively textured with honey and quince character, lovely balance and length. Certainly amongst my favourites.

2011:
Still youthful wine, attractive texture and complexity, some toasty flavours along with a touch of caramel with good balancing acidity in the finish.

2012:
Not made – severe April frost

2013:
Citric aromas and palate, quite austere finish reflecting this difficult vintage, precise but the wine falls away in the finish.

2014:
Floral and ripe fruit nose and palate, some barley sugar notes, very good length and very clean purity with some delicate wood notes. Still young but with impressive potential. Certainly amongst my favourites and shows the progress that has been made with the Papillon wines.

2015:
Floral and citric – obviously still very youthful.

The two additional vintages

1992
This was a big vintage after the very severe frost of 1991. Wines were often dilute. Light gold, very oxidative style, nutty character but dilute in fish. Certainly reasonable for the vintage.

1989
Showing the hallmarks of a great vintage. Ironically this wine shows the precision and vibrancy that Evelyne has to working for since she took over Closel. There is a little oxidative character but it is very restrained. Amazinly fresh – stunning wine!

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Ben Llewelyn of Carte Blanche Wines studying
a carte of the vineyards of Savennières

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Auteur : Les 5 du Vin

Journalistes en vin

3 réflexions sur “A journey to precision: vertical of Closel’s Clos du Papillon

  1. Memories of tastings (at least twice) at Madame de Jessey’s … when I was young. Clos du Papillon has always been a good wine. Irony between the esoteric adhesion to BioDyn and the computerized model for the picking decision. And then: what is « precision » in a wine, Jim? I don’t know such a thing, but my shortcomings are well known.

    J'aime

  2. Clean, vibrant, well balanced flavours and texture, Luc. IMHO the wines are better now. Surely as a producer you use what you consider to be the best tools available. Perhaps it is different in parts of Roussillon…..

    J'aime

  3. Oh yes, it is very different in some parts of Roussillon: we tend to use the worst methods available in order not to crush the competition altogether. Our grapes are so superb that it would be unfair to add sharp techniques and skills to the already so superior quality of our raw material. Your point is taken …

    Aimé par 1 personne

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