Spectacular view over Lisbon from the 5th floor terrace of the
Bahr’s bar and restaurant with the April 25th Bridge lit up
BAHR: two glasses of Filipa Pato’s Espumante Blanc de Blancs
New restaurants and bars in Lisbon continue to open with bewildering rapidity. The city has changed dramatically over the past five years or so as it has become a favoured all year holiday destination. This has been assisted by the renovations to the city over the past 10 to 15 years with buildings cleaned up, renovated and the centre of the city made more attractive, especially by opening up the waterfront along the Tagus to pedestrians, runners, cyclists and the electric mini-scooteria.
To keep up with all the new developments would require a considerable team working flat out…
I do worry, however, that this boom could turn quite quickly to bust if there is a downturn in the number of visitors coming to Lisbon as many of the new places opening are set up to cater for the influx of visitors. I sincerely hope that Coronavirus can be contained but if not it will clearly have dramatic consequences for tourism.
The new openings/new finds
Here are five new favourites: two restaurants and three wine bars:
BAHR (Bairro Alto Hotel Restaurante)
Wonderfully delicate and perfectly cooked sea bass dish
On the 5th Floor of the recently opened Bairro Alto Hotel on the Largo de Camões, this is a very stylish restaurant and terrace bar with a great view over the lower part of Lisbon and out over the Tagus Bay. The cooking is extremely good as is the service. There are some brilliant dishes and a quite extensive wine list. Quite expensive for Lisbon but not for the quality of the food etc.. Certainly recommended for a treat.
Praça Luis de Camoes 2 5º Floor – Terrace
Tel: 351 21 334 0253
Black pudding and poached egg
2017 Alicante Bouschet from Rocim (Alentejo)
This is a very impressive restaurant with excellent food and professional, very friendly service. We have enjoyed the black pudding (morcela) with a poached egg as a first course, then as main courses both the trio of pork and the roasted salt cod were also impressive. The rich trio of chocolate is an excellent way of finishing the meal. There is plenty to choose from on the wine list at various price points.
Rua Nova de São Mamede 23,
Tel: 351 927 608 582
Campo de Ourique
This used to be Aromas e Sabores the Santos family’s original grocery shop that also included a wine bar. They own the very good Garrafeira Campo de Ourique just across the street. The shop closed for renovation in 2019 and has been reborn with the focus shifting mainly to the wine bar side. This is an excellent wine bar with an extensive, reasonably priced, wine list both by the glass and bottle. João Chambel is the very helpful sommelier. The food is very good, so easily possible to dine here unlike some of the other Lisbon wine bars that have a limited food offer. Brazilian chef, Simone Santos, rattles the pots and pans. On our first visit with friends we enjoyed a duo of red Tondonias (Rioja) – 2005 and 2007 with the 07 showing better than 05. Very definitely recommended. Booking is recommended, especially towards the weekend.
Open: Tuesday to Saturday: 10.30 am – 10.30pm. Closed Sunday and Monday.
Rua Tomás da Anunciação 44,
Tel: +351 21 396 3985
Small, friendly wine bar just down from the side entrance to the Estrela Park with a remarkable list of oraganic and ‘natural’ wines not just from Portugal but from elsewhere in Europe. Run by Canadians Stéphanie and Marc. Small plates of good vegetarian food. Also there is quite an extensive list of wines by the glass. Staff are very knowledgeable and enthusiastic about the wines. Definitely recommended. Open 7 days: 6pm-11pm.
Rua de Santo Amaro 66A
Tel: +351 21 396 0917
Le Jaja de Ben Jean-François Ganevat, Jura
Principe Real/São Bento
Brian and Jennifer behind the bar
A friendly micro but perfectly formed wine bar run by an American couple – Brian and Jennifer. Fairly recently opened it features wines from small-scale Portuguese producers with an accent on natural wines. It is in the attractive Praça das Flores to the south of the Jardim do Principe Real. Interesting and often changing selection of wines by the glass as well as a good range of bottles plus a limited range of snacks. You can buy bottles to take away at a slightly reduced priced, although you may well be able to find them cheaper in a retail shop. 20% off on Monday nights. Good for an early drink or a late glass on the way home. Has become a favourite.
Open: Thursday: 6pm-12am, Friday – Saturday: 6pm – 1am, Sunday – Monday: 6pm-12am. Closed Tuesday and Wednesday.
Praça das Flores 62
Tel: 351 935 738 749
Here are a couple of previous posts on eating and enjoying good things in Lisbon: