Vouvray wine-making law bites back

A tribute to Jacky Blot: The Magician of Montlouis

Jancis Robinson MW is one of the world’s leading and most influential wine writers, especially since Parker has retired. Since 2000 she has had her website – jancisrobinson.com, which is part free, part subscription. She has long been the wine columnist for the Financial Times and her books include The Oxford Companion to Wine, Wine Grapes with with Julia Harding MW and Jose Vouillamoz and, following Hugh Johnson’s retirement, The World Atlas of Wine.

Jancis Robinson MW

On 10th May 2021 Jancis published a tribute to Jacky Blot – The Magician of Montlouis (subscribers only but you can get a free one hour trial). Jancis tasted over 40 wines from the Domaine Taille aux Loups (Montlouis and Vin de France) and Domaine de la Butte (Bourgueil). The article is very enthusiastic about Jacky and Jean-Philippe Blot’s work and the tasting notes and scores are very positive. Six wines from Venise and Bretonnière (Vin de France) were Included in the tasting. The six wines had an average score of 16.75 – Jancis marks out of 20.

In June 2015 I posted the above article on the petty politics and jealousies that led to Jacky Blot and François Chidaine losing from the 2014 vintage the right to label their wines from grapes grown in their vineyards in Vouvray as Vouvray. Instead these excellent ‘Vouvrays’ are labelled Vin de France. I am still convinced that this ban is on highly dubious legal grounds and am somewhat surprised that François and Jacky never mounted a legal challenge. I assume they decided that it wasn’t worth the time and effort involved. They may even have thought that Vin de France was more prestigious. Certainly Vouvray’s spiteful move has made no difference to their sales – the names Blot and Chidaine guarantee quality rather than the appellation.

Jancis’ article shows that the Vouvray authorities have expertly shot themselves in the foot instead of a global audience of wine lovers reading about high quality Vouvrays instead they having high quality Vin de France and Montlouis wines brought to their attention.


2 réflexions sur “Vouvray wine-making law bites back

  1. David Cobbold

    Totally agree Jim. They are pretty good at shooting themselves in both feet at Vouvray. I can remember a few years back when there was a big interenational get-together over the Chenin Blanc at Fontevraud Abbey and the Vouvray people refused to participate saying « we don’t make Chenin Blanc, we make Vouvray ». How stupid can you get?

    Aimé par 1 personne

    1. Jim Budd

      Yes David I was also remembering their idiotic decision over the Chenin Blanc event. Little surprise that overall Montlouis is the more vibrant and dynamic appellation.


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