Les 5 du Vin

5 journalistes parlent du vin


1 commentaire

2017 VitiLoire, Tours – 28th & 29th May

17VitiLoire

The 2017 edition of VitiLoire is on this coming weekend – Saturday 27th and Sunday 29th May – in central Tours. This is the largest consumer Loire wine fair attracting producers (downloadable list here) from the Pays Nantais to Pouilly-Fumé/Coteaux du Giennois. Opening hours on Saturday are from 10.00 to 19.00 and on Sunday 10.00 to 18.00. Entry is free with just a small charge for a glass.

Vitiloire is right in the centre of Tours in front of the Tours mainline station, in the centre of the Boulevard Heurteloup and the Jardin du Vinci.

As well as tasting wines they can be bought and there are porters that will carry your purchases to your car. Alternatively wines can be sent throughout France from as little as two cartons on six bottles.

There are also various food stalls mainly selling local specialities.

IMG_8464
Vincent Simon

VitiLoire also involves 10 local top chefs such as Marie  (La Petite Cuisine, Tours ), Vincent Simon (Cuisinier de Campagne, Ingrandes de Touraine), Florent Martin (Au Martin Bleu, Tours), Olivier Loize, (La Mère Hamard, Semblançay) and Sébastien Leroy (patissier de l’Orangerie de Chenonceau), who give a programme of demonstrations over the two days.

There are guided bike rides, including one to Vouvray, as well as walks.

The first edition was in 2003 and VitiLoire has proved to be a great success. Last year’s edition saw around 150 producers and 40,000 visitors over the two days. The weather forecast is for hot sunny weather with highs around 30˚C on both days.

IMG_8407

IMG_8408
Bruno Curassier, Domaine de la Grange, Touraine

IMG_8411

IMG_8438
Not a wedding but someone who
will carry your wine purchases to your car

IMG_8443
Catherine Dhoye Deruet, Domaine de la Fontainerie, Vouvray

IMG_8446

Lunch

Lunch in the shade

IMG_8437
France remains on high alert

GaredeToursbs
Tours mainline station

jim-vinho-verde


2 Commentaires

Jim’s off on an adventure + Fêtes des Vins de Bourgueil

By the time you read this CRM and I will be in Hong Kong. The first stage of a trip that will take us into mainland China after a few days in Hong Kong. After time in China we catch the train from Beijing to Forest Hill, London SE23 – Trans-Manchurian, Trans-Siberian, Moscow-Paris, Eurostar to Saint Pancras, Metropolitan Line to Whitechapel and Overground to Forest Hill. 

 

15th Annual Fête des Vins de Bourgueil

This annual Fête des Vins de Bourgueil is highly recommended if you are in the Tours area on Saturday 25th March. It’s a great opportunity to discover not only the latest vintage but also previous vintages. Unfortunately because of the severe April frost last year supplies of the 2016 vintage will be in short supply for many Bourgueil producers. Luckily 2014 and 2015 are both good vintages, so this is a very good opportunity to taste and buy these wines while they are still available. 

Details:
À la découverte d’un terroir

Pour la 15ème année consécutive, les vignerons de Bourgueil investissent le centre-ville de Tours pour célébrer la fête des vins de Bourgueil sur le boulevard Heurteloup. Après avoir acheté un verre de dégustation (2 €), les amateurs découvriront le millésime 2016, pourront rencontrer 50 vignerons, et remplir leur cave des meilleurs vins rouges et rosés de l’appellation.

En présence de la Commanderie de la Dive Bouteille de Bourgueil et Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil et de métiers de bouche qui proposeront une restauration sur place, cette quinzième édition de la Fête des Vins de Bourgueil à Tours proposera également des animations pour les enfants autour du goût et de la dégustation.

Informations pratiques

15ème fête des vins de Bourgueil à Tours
Samedi 25 mars 2017, de 10h à 19h – Boulevard Heurteloup, Tours centre.
Plus d’infos sur vinbourgueil.com

jbglassescrps

 


1 commentaire

Gérard Boulay: two Sancerres + 2017 VitiLoire

Gérard Boulay: two magnificent 2014 Sancerres

 

2014 Monts Damnés


2014 La Côte 

Saturday evening two friends – Suzie and Mark – came for apéros. They are now Epeigné-les-Bois’ sole wine producers with their bijou vineyard – Clos Chossay.

I thought it would be interesting to try two of Gérard Boulay’s single site wines – Monts Damnés and La Côte – both from 2014.

I decided to serve the Monts Damnés first as it is more austere and mineral, while La Côte, which is the last of Gérard‘s vines to be harvested, had a little more weight. Both were excellent and still young with many years ahead of them. 

Les Monts Damnés site is now well known but La Côte (La Grand Côte) is much less well known – in part because it is off the beaten track unlike Les Monts Damnés.

 View of Chavignol (nestling below the surrounding hills in the distance)

Les Monts Damnés are to the right of the village in this photo,
while La Grande Côte is round to the left towards Amigny
beyond Le Cul de Beaujeu, which dominates Chavignol

  Some of the slopes of  Les Monts Damnés looking towards Sancerre
Gérard Boulay 

•••

 

 

The annual VitiLoire consumer fair in the centre of Tours, which is always held on the last weekend in May, is well worth visiting. It is a great opportunity to taste a wide range of wines from all over the Loire as well as to buy them.

5 spots incontournables pour les wine lover 
Press release:

‘À seulement 1 heure de Paris, VitiLoire est la plus grande manifestation gratuite et grand public autour des 79 appellations des vins du Val de Loire, 1er vignoble oenotouristique de France. Le temps d’un week-end prolongé, c’est également l’occasion de découvrir Tours, Cité Internationale de la Gastronomie, les bars à vins, les restos, les meilleurs cavistes de la ville et de vivre des expériences inédites dans le vignoble !

VitiLoire
Gastronomie, vins, patrimoine, culture : Tours remet le couvert avec la 15e édition de Vitiloire ! Avec ses grandes tablées conviviales et sa ribambelle de petits kiosques d’artisans locaux et de producteurs viticoles, VitiLoire est un événement 100 % locavore. C’est aussi le meilleur moyen pour goûter les grandes appellations de la région, telles que Sancerre, Vouvray, Chinon et de commander ses bouteilles directement auprès de petits vignerons. Du bar à vins qui invite les amateurs à voyager dans le temps grâce à une sélection de millésimes aux ateliers de dégustation pour s’initier aux vins du Val de Loire et comprendre leur processus de fabrication, VitiLoire est un vrai rendez-vous pour les amateurs ou dégustateurs avertis.

VitiLoire 2017 // Samedi 27 de 10h à 19h et dimanche 28 mai de 10h à 18h
3 560 m2 d’exposition à ciel ouvert en plein centre-ville
• 79 AOC du Val de Loire
• 140 exposants (vignerons, caves coopératives et négociants du Val de Loire, artisans des métiers de bouche, services) • 10 chefs cuisiniers Tourangeaux
• Fréquentation 2016 : 35 000 visiteurs
• Entrée libre

  • 5 € le verre collector pour déguster les vins
• Nombreux services : livraisons, grooms, garderie d’enfants
• Horaires : samedi de 10h à 19h, dimanche de 10h à 18h
•

Lieux : Place de la Gare, Boulevard Heurteloup, Jardin de la Préfecture

Bar à vin/resto/caviste : le vin dans tous ses états
Verre d’A.O.P Touraine sur la Place Plum’ ou à la Guiguette de Tours sur Loire à l’heure de l’apéro, bars à vins, cavistes : Tours égrène intra-muros une multitude de bonnes adresses. Avec sa déco trendy, son épicerie et sa jolie cour privative, La Réserve comble tous les goûts avec une carte des vins riche de 70 références qui font voyager les palais dans tous les vignobles de France. Authentique par nature, La Cave sur la Place tire son épingle du jeu avec une sélection de vins en bio, biodynamie et nature. Côté agapes, le QG est un nouveau restaurant artisanal qui prône les circuits courts et les produits frais avec une belle sélection de vins au verre à partir de 5€. La Réserve // 84 rue Colbert – La Cave sur la Place // Place Velpeau – Le QG // 9, place du Grand-Marché, formule déjeuner à 21€

Segway© dans les vignes
Ecologique, silencieux et insolite, le segway s’aventure désormais au coeur des différentes A.O.C des Vins de Loire. Balades de 1h30 ou 2h avec ou sans dégustation de Vins de Loire, la société Gyroway propose plusieurs randos-vignes en gyropode au départ d’une cave partenaire à destination de Chinon, Touraine, Bourgueil, Saint Nicolas de Bourgueil, Vouvray, MontLouis ou Saumur Champigny.

Gyroway // Balade de 2h – 49€ pour les adultes / 39€ pour les moins de 16 ans

Nuit dans un domaine viticole
Propriété viticole en pleine nature, le Château de Fontenay, producteur en A.O.C Touraine à Bléré, propose 4 chambres d’hôtes avec vue sur le Cher et 12 hectares de vignes. Le lieu parfait pour se reposer, méditer et se ressourcer à l’ombre des des glycines…
Le + : certains éléments de la déco du château proposés à la vente !

A partir de 99€ la nuit pour 2 personnes

Randos dans le vignoble
Organisées par le service Archives et Patrimoine de la Ville de Tours et encadrées par le Comité Départemental de Randonnée Pédestre d’Indre-et-Loire et l’Of ce de Tourisme de Tours, VitiLoire propose 3 circuits pédestres thématiques à la découverte du patrimoine viticole et gastronomique de Tours ainsi qu’une grande randonnée à Vélo de 3 heures. Vigne, Loire et Littérature // samedi 27 – Une balade de 6,5 km qui permet de découvrir le passé viticole de Saint-Cyr-sur-Loire, terre de nombreux écrivains tels que Balzac, Anatole France ou encore Tocqueville.

Vigne en ville // dimanche 28 – Une balade de 8,4 km qui relie VitiLoire au domaine viticole du Clos de Rougemont.
Cité de la Gastronomie // samedi 27 – Un parcours urbain de 4 km pour découvrir les spécialités culinaires de la ville autour des Halles de Tours.

Histoire et Paysages du Vouvray – dimanche 28 – Randonnée cycliste de 25 km immerge les visiteurs en plein coeur des vignobles de Vouvray…’

Scenes from previous editions:

 

 

 

img_1039


1 commentaire

2016 Bourgueil à Tours

Fête Bourgueils

Saturday was Bourgueil’s annual Fête des Vins right in the centre of Tours. They camp in wooden huts along the central alley of the Boulevard Heurteloup, just a stone’s throw from Tours main railway station, associated bus terminal and the tramway – also close to the Hotel de Ville.

This edition was the 14th. It was the late Jean Germain, mayor of Tours and from Bourgueil, who was the impetus behind establishing this very successful fête. His successor as mayor – Serge Babary – was present for the official opening on Saturday showing his continued support for Bourgueil’s fête.

IMG_2974
Serge Babary well wrapped up against the chill of Saturday morning 

Although rather courageously held in mid-March the weather is generally reasonably clement, although it was decidedly chilly early on Saturday before the sun came out. It was notable that most producers served their wines at room temperature i.e. freezing, while a few savvy ones, like Jacky Blot, brought hairdryers to warm their wines and so soften the tannins.

Like VitiLoire, held here in the centre of Tours at the end of May, the Fête des Vins de Bourgueil is a real success, an excellent shop window for the wines – attracting crowds of winelovers, particularly during the afternoon. It attracts a significant number of people in their 20s. With prices for Bourgueil starting at around 5€ and with two promising vintages – 2014 and 2015 – it is not surprising that many of the 41 producers present were doing a brisk trade in selling their wines.

I fancy that, like 1989 and 1990/1995 and 1996/2009 and 2010, there may well be a long running debate over the relative merits of 2014 and 2015. Certainly many 2014 Cabernet Francs from Chinon, Bourgueil, Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil, Saumur and Saumur-Champigny are currently showing very well with fine concentration of ripe Loire fruit and lovely balance, although without the richness of very sunny years like 2005 and 2009. This recalls that it was the excellent September 2014 that saved the vintage after a poor July and August.

With few of the 2015s in bottle it is still too early to be sure of the character of this vintage and impressions vary from vigneron to vigneron. To date it has plenty of charm but a little less concentration than found in the 2014s. Although much of the summer was very dry, there was rain towards the end of August and then in mid-September a period of very heavy, torrential rain. The weather station at Tours recorded 87.6mm for September – well above the average of 53.2mm. Almost all of this rain fell between 12th and 16th, only 7.2mm fell outside this five day period. There were places that recorded considerably more rain – over 100mm during the five days.

 IMG_0307
2015 Cabernet Franc 

Although the Cabernet Franc withstood this onslaught remarkably well with no rot developing – greatly assisted by the sun and wind that followed the downpour – there must have been some dilution. Not necessarily a bad thing given the very dry summer. Whatever the relative merits of 2014 and 2015 the Loire has two good vintages to sell.

IMG_3005
Aurélien Revillot

IMG_3012
Sophie Raimbault

Among the producers, who impressed me on Saturday were: Domaine Ansodelles (especially 2014 Conversation), Domaine de la Chevalerie (especially 2014 Dyptique and 2011 Bretêche), Nau Frères (2014 Vieilles Vignes), Yannick Amirault (especially 2013 Le Grand Clos – impressive for such a difficult vintage), Domaine Menard (especially 2014 Les Jardins des Raisin),  Jacky Blot (especially 2014 Pied de la Butte, 2014 Haut de la Butte – both sold out), Domaine Dubois (especially 2014 Vieilles Vignes), Aurélien Revillot (especially 2013 Les Aubuis – success in a difficult vintage, 2014 Sur les Hauts), Nathalie Omasson (especially 2014 Vieilles Vignes – great value at 5€), Laurent Herlin (2014 Terre d’Adoption), Lamé Delisle Boucard (especially 2015 Cuvée des Chesnaies, 2014 Vieilles Vignes, 2011 Prestige), Audebert (especially 2011 Les Marquises), Domaine des Ouches (especially 2012 Les Clos Boireaux) and Domaine de Petit Bondieu (especially 2014 Petit Mont – showed much better than in a tasting September 2014, 2014 Les Couplets).

Santé !

IMG_2994

Armand de Tilly – les pattes du vigneron …..

IMG_2179

 

 

 

 

 


2 Commentaires

Clowns & Champagne, Vinovision, Fête des Vins de Bourgueil

Champin

Send in the sparkling Clowns!

I have to wonder whether the litigious Champagne producers, represented by the CIVC, were best advised when they decided to go after Champin – a fruit flavoured kids’ drink sold in Spain. Did the CIVC really think that a sweet, fizzy drink for young children could really be confused with Champagne?

Are there really some Champagnes with so much sugar added that they taste similar to Champin? Or was it the clowns on the Champin label that could create confusion?

On Monday 7th March the CIVC’s legal challenge was thrown out by Spain’s Supreme Court. The Spanish judges, unlike the CIVC, were not confused: they thought there was a clear difference between Champagne and Champin. The CIVC lawyers were told by the judges that any similarities between Champagne and Champin were « tenuous and irrelevant ».

Last year in Australia the CIVC failed in its bid to stop Jayne Powell using her Champagne Jayne moniker.

•••

VinoVision .jpg

VinoVision
Last week the first edition of VinoVision (Burgundy, Champagne Loire) was announced for 2017 – to be held in Paris running from Sunday 12th to Tuesday 14th February. For the first time there will be a wine fair in Paris for professionals incorporating wines from Burgundy, Champagne and the Loire.

VinoVision will be held at the Porte de Versailles with space for 650 exhibitors.

It will be very interesting to see how successful VinoVision will be and what the implications will be for the Salon des Vins de Loire, which will be held the week before. Will the larger companies, such as Henri Bourgeois, Joseph Mellot, Grands Chais de France and Castel, who have all deserted the Salon des Vins de Loire, now find VinoVision and attractive option with a good chance that importers around the world will be attracted to VinoVision in Paris?

Benoît Roumet (Bureau Interprofessionnel des Vins du Centre Loire): « The problem for the Salon des Vins de Loire is that by itself the Loire just isn’t big enough to attract enough foreign importers. Combining Burgundy, Champagne and the Loire and holding the Salon in Paris it should attract importers from all around the world. Alsace might want to be included in future editions of VinoVision ».

With the arrival of VinoVision there will now be four virtually consecutive Salons from late January 2017 starting with Millésime Bio in Montpellier (30th January -1st February), next Salon des Vins de Loire in Angers (6th-8th February), then VinoVision in Paris (12th – 14th February) and ending with Vinisud, now an annual fair, back in Montpellier (20th to 22nd February).

Also one mustn’t forget the ‘Big Daddy’ Prowein (19th to 21st March), Vinitaly (26th-29th March) and VinExpo Bordeaux (18th – 21st June). Then there are the various fairs in America and Asia.

Buyers surely cannot go to all of these, so will some Salons disappear?

•••

Invasion of Tours: 14ème fête des vins de Bourgueil à Tours Saturday 19th March

The annual invasion of the centre of Tours by the producers of Bourgueil – otherwise known as the Fête des Vins de Bourgueil – is this Saturday (19th). This is always an excellent opportunity to taste the latest vintage – 2015 on this occasion – plus there should be plenty of the very attractive 2014s to try.

There will be around 50 producers present.  Although these Bourgueil invaders don’t take any prisoners, they are ready to sell their wines.

The Fête is held in the central alleyway of the Boulevard Heurteloup, close to Tours’ main railway station. The event runs from 10am to 7pm and is free to get in but will cost you 2€ for a tasting glass.

The weather forecast looks pretty good – sunny but cold so wrap up warm!

ForecastjpgJIM BUDD

A hairy moment!


4 Commentaires

Vitiloire à Tours ce weekend – le 30 et le 31 mai

2015 Vitiloire

2015 Vitiloire

This weekend the centre of Tours hosts the largest consumer fair for Loire wines – Vitiloire. This is a great opportunity to taste wines from 150 Loire producers in a relaxed atmosphere right in the centre of Tours – close to the railway station. 150 producers stretching from the Pays Nantais up to Saint-Pourçain, along with the chance to enjoy local specialities sitting in the sunshine – fingers crossed.

Christophe Baudry (Baudry-Dutour) showing off their new sparkling rosé @2014 edition.

Christophe Baudry (Baudry-Dutour) showing off their new sparkling rosé @2014 edition.

Wines from new AC Touraine-Chenonceaux on show last year

Wines from new AC Touraine-Chenonceaux on show last year

Lunchtime in front of Tours station – time to relax with local dishes and a glass or two of wine

Lunchtime in front of Tours station – time to relax with local dishes and a glass or two of wine

 Samedi de 10h à 19h – Dimanche de 10h à 18h 

Place de la Gare – Boulevard Heurteloup – Jardin de la Préfecture 


10 Commentaires

2014 en primeur? No thanks I’ll lunch instead @Les Belles Caves (Tours)

Les Belles Caves

Les Belles Caves

Last week Les 5 gave a substantial sign our collective good sense – none of us were in Bordeaux for the annual en primeur madness.

Many acknowledge that late March/early April after the vintage is too early to assess wines that will not be bottled for around another 18 months. Furthermore there is little guarantee that the blends tasted this last week will be the final blend. Indeed it would be strange if the definitive blend was decided this early.

Despite these well-founded doubts thousands of merchants, consultants and journalists descended on Bordeaux to taste the 2014. Many will have spent the Easter weekend writing up the hundreds if not thousands of tasting notes they took aiming to publish as soon as possible. Tasting notes are always a snap shot but these notes on unfinished wines are even more transitory than usual.

With Robert Parker now opting out of tasting en primeur, there is an added incentive for leading critics signed up for the 2015 Parker Handicap Chase to get their notes out as early as possible to have a chance of moving up the pecking order.

Christian Seely of Pichon-Baron reported that over last week he had well over 2000 visitors at the château. Surely another insanity! All these merchants, journos rushing up and down the Médoc and across to Saint-Emilion – driving trying to keep up to their crowded appointment agenda. How many litres of fuel wasted in a week?

Anyone putting together a sensible programme would arrange for all of the en primeur wines to be tasted centrally in Bordeaux thus drastically curtailing the amount of driving. Of course this won’t happen. The reverse is the case with more and more châteaux opting to oblige tasters to make appointments to taste at the château. You can see why this is so attractive to the châteaux. Impossible to taste blind and an opportunity to impress with their new stunning tasting room, new cuverie etc.. No point splashing the cash if no one notices…

All this for an en primeur system that has recently served the ultimate consumer or investor badly as Will Lyons has shown in The Wall Street Journal. A process that has thinned people’s wallets as efficiently as a 24-year Bromley scamster:

‘Let’s run through the numbers. Figures from Liv-ex, the London International Vintners Exchange, show that Château Lafite Rothschild 2010 was released at a price of £12,000 for a case of 12 bottles. Today it is trading at £5,600—a loss of 53%, or £6,400.’ More here.

Instead of Bordeaux we opted instead to have Wednesday lunch to the fine Bistrot des Belles Caves in central Tours, one of Jacky and Joelle Blot’s businesses. In Touraine there are many three-course weekday lunches for between 10-12 €. Two courses at the Bistrot des Belles Caves costs 18€ with three-courses 24€. The difference being that the cooking at the Bistrot is very good with an amuse bouche included. Six euros more for fine dining. Not that a basic menu can’t be fun and good value. Rather that six euros moves the whole experience up a number a notches.. Furthermore the wine list is extensive and excellent – strong, of course, in the Loire but also Burgundy.

Bistrot 4 Bordeaux 0

The brilliant 2009 Vendanges Entires from Vincent Pinard.

The brilliant 2009 Vendanges Entières from Vincent Pinard.

The fine first course featuring an oeuf mollet

The fine first course featuring an oeuf mollet

Anita's salmon

Anita’s salmon

Chicken with spring vegetables

Chicken with spring vegetables

My very good entrecôte cooked just I ordered.

My very good entrecôte cooked just I ordered.

J-Elvis1