Les 5 du Vin

5 journalistes parlent du vin

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The beauty of Sauvignon in Styria (2/2)

This is the second part of an article that started last Monday from the fine Austrian town of Graz (admire the shopfront above in the old town). I should also refer those interested to a series of 3 articles that I wrote (in French) on this same region and its wines from Sauvignon Blanc on this site back in 2015.

First I owe an apology for not checking a fact in my article last Monday. I wrote that Sauvignon Blanc « probably originated in France’s Loire valley and appears to be the result of a spontaneous crossing of Traminer with Chenin Blanc. » This is what the official  documents of  Austrian Wines say, but it is clearly disputed by José Vouillamoz in the admirable collective book Wine Grapes, co-authored by Jancis Robinson and Julia Harding. Vouillamoz is an ampelographer and specialist in DNA analysis, and I would tend to trust his autority on this matter. He says that Traminer is effectively one of the parents of Sauvignon Blanc, but that the other is currently unknown. The relationship between Sauvignon Blanc and Chenin Blanc is that of a sibling, with Traminer being the shared parent.

I think we all can agree that describing a wine by simply naming its variety is just as inadequate as using a region or appellation to provide some form of « identikit » portrait of a wine. Bringing the two together may get us a bit nearer to the truth, although I still shun the term « typicality », which is  one of the three « t » words that I try to avoid whenever possible in connection with wine as their significations are, at best, variable, and, at worst, meaningless (tradition and terroir anyone?)

photo BK Wine

Sauvignon Blanc is a very popular grape variety with consumers in major wine markets, even if it hardly casts a shadow on Chardonnay. Yet it suffers from a somewhat ambiguous reputation with some wine professionals (are you reading this Marco?) who say that they dislike it on the whole. Naturally personal preferences play an essential role in all our esthetic choices, but I do think that one should be careful about making sweeping statements of this kind. I must admit to having fallen into a similar trap on occasion, such as in the case of the variety from Savoie called Jacquère, which I have been known to call « quite un-interesting ». I am sure that there are some good wines of Jacquère and I hope to taste them someday soon! But Sauvignon Blanc is far more widely planted on different sites and in different climates that Jacquère, not to mention the greater number of techniques used in the production of these wines. Hence its diversity is much greater, and saying that one dislikes Sauvignon Blanc is rather like saying that one dislikes the total population of any one country: an unacceptable and simplistic generalization based on limited experience.

Part of the Lackner Tinnacher vineyard near Gamlitz under snow last week

Now, to get back to the particular case of Sauvignon Blanc in Austrian Styria (Steiermark to give it its real name), the style of the good examples of these wines strikes me as being somewhere in between the often highly aromatic one of wines from Marlborough in New Zealand and the very lean and restrained style of the Central Loire wines, of which Sancerre is the best known appellation. Once again, this remark falls fully into the generalization trap, but it is an attempt to provide the reader with some idea as a start and an encouragement to explore these wines. Styrian Sauvignons have plenty of freshness from their altitude-affected cool climate, and yet manage to attain decent to excellent ripeness levels from the combination between good site choice and careful vineyard management. This means that they totally avoid any herbal or grassy character, as much in terms of aromas as textures, and are less severe and sharp in their perceived acidity as many a young Sancerre, as well as being more expressively aromatic. The textural factor is a key element in my personal judgment of a wine and the best Sauvignons from Steiermark excel in this respect since they manage to feel suave without any loss of freshness. Pleasant and stimulating aromas, good mouth-watering freshness and fine, lingering textures are to me three characteristic « signatures » of these wines.

I wrote some comments last week on some of the Styrian Sauvignon Blanc wines that I tasted when I was in Graz and, if you read them, you will see that there were good and less good wines in that set, so I am definitely NOT saying that all Styrian Sauvignon Blancs are good. That would be a form of « fake news ».  In this preceding article, I commented the wines without giving each of them a note as I usually do, and so, following a discussion last week about an article by my colleague Hervé Lalau, I will do so now. To get a fuller picture, you will have to put the two parts together.

Harkamp Sauvignon Blanc extra brut (sparking, méthode traditionnelle): 13,5/20

Maitz, Steirische Klassik Sauvignon Blanc 2017: 15,5/20

Strauss Classic Sauvignon Blanc 2017: 11/20

Riegelnegg Olwitschhof, Sauvignon Blanc Sernauberg Roland 8° 2016: 9/20

Erwin Sabathi Sauvignon Blanc Ried Pössnitzberger Kapelle 2015: 17/20

Gross Sauvignon Blanc Ried Nussberg 2015: the bottle was corked !

Polz, Sauvignon Blanc Therese 2015: 16/20

Frauwaller Sauvignon Blanc Ried Buch 2013: 13/20

Potzinger Sauvignon Blanc Reserve Sulz Joseph 2013: 14,5/20

Muster Sauvignon Blanc Grubthal 2013: 16,5/20

Neumeister, Sauvignon Blanc Stradener Alte Reben 2011: 17/20

Tement, Sauvignon Blanc Zieregg 2011: 15/20

Sattlerhof Sauvignon Blanc Kranachberg Trockenbeerenauslese 2013: 19/20

This last part of this article will concern a single estate that we, as judges at the Concours Mondial de Sauvignon Blanc, were taken to visit. Lackner Tinnacher is a family estate currently managed by Katherina Tinnacher (above) and her father. Situated in hills near the village of Gamlitz, in the Südsteiermark sub-region, its history goes back to 1770 and all the wines produced come from the family-owned vineyards on six different sites. Katherina converted the vineyard to organic farming in 2013. Suavignon Blanc is not the sole variety planted here as Morrillon (Chardonnay) is also important and there are some other varieties.

Just one of the many tasting areas at this beautifully designed and hospitable winery whose wines are as good as the looks

I had visited this estate previously on my last trip to Styria back in 2015, so this was also an opportunity to measure the progress made in many aspects here. And at least one aspect of this progress this was very clear from the outset, with work now finished on the (mainly) internal modernization of the buildings, with the traditional dwelling house now totally and intelligently renovated and dedicated to reception of customers, with ample tasting rooms and a perfect connection to the winery via a cellar to ensure a smooth transition for visitors at any time of the year. Katherina’s sister is an architect and she is responsible for this remarkable work of conversion that shows, as so often in Austria, that all-too-rare combination of respect for traditional architectural forms and materials and successful use of modern design. All of this integrates superbly and the use of wood in furniture and decor, some of which apparently comes from the estate’s own forestry, is particularly remarkable.

My tasting of the Lackner Tinnacher wines (prices given are consumer retail in Austria)

This tasting, that followed a brief visit, was so impeccably organized that I would cite this as an excellent example of how to handle a tasting for a fairly large group (we were around 40 tasters from several countries). Katherina was clear in her discourse, without any undue emphasis but passing the messages about her approach to wine on this estate. We were all seated, the rooms and tables were well appointed and perfectly adapted. The glassware was impeccable and there was a list of the wines printed for every taster with some factual information on each. Plus the wines were served at the right temperature and at the right speed. This combination is sufficiently rare to be underlined.

If you cannot be bothered to read all the tasting notes below, just consider that this producer is highly recommended.

Südsteiermark Sauvignon Blanc 2017 (price around 15 euros)

A blend from younger vines made in stainless steel. Quite firm and fresh. Very good definition with a nice balance between fruit and acidity (15/20).

All the remaining wines, apart from the last one, are from single vineyard plots, which is the approach favoured by Katherina. It is not necessarily the one that I would personally adopt, but it is their wine after all! I did make an improvised blend of two of their 2015 single vineyard wines and found it better than each part. So, it is fashionable to subdivide and speak a lot about « terroir » and « authenticity ». But this does not necessarily make the wines any better.

Ried Steinbach Sauvignon Blanc 2015 (price around 25 euros)

Various soils types and meso-climates cohabit in this vineyard. Intense, almost exotic aromas from this warm vintage. Firmly structured and quite tactile, with excellent balance, it will need a year or two to give its maximum. Very subtle use of oak in the process (16,5/20)

Ried Steinbach Sauvignon Blanc 2001

Interesting to see the ageing capacity of these wines. The nose is rich and tropical in style. Perhaps a bit too much oak, but a good wine with a softer profile than its younger version. Pleasant now and has lasted well but I think that the younger wine will go further (15/20).

Ried Flamberg Sauvignon Blanc 2015 (price around 25 euros)

Limestone soils for this vineyard. This seemed sharper and crisper on the palate that the Steinbach vineyards from the same vintage. Good length and precision. I found that blending the two 2015s in roughly equal proportions was a good compromise and produced a better balance. (16/20 for the original, 17/20 for my blend).

Ried Flamberg Sauvignon Blanc 2014

Apparently a more difficult year on account of rain. Thinner, with edgy acidity and less length. (14,5/20)

Ried Welles Sauvignon Blanc 2015 (price around 40 euros)

Stony subsoil with sand and gravel on top. The highest vineyard of the estate, at 510 meters. Still quite closed on the nose and tight on the palate. It has had 18 months in barrels but will need more time in the bottle. A biggish wine with firm structure. Not sure that it is worth the extra money though (16,5/20)

Ried Welles Sauvignon Blanc 2013

The vintage was also a good one here. Far more expressive and juicy, at least on the nose, thanks to the extra time in the bottle. But on the palate this is still tight and almost tannic. Power wins over finesse here (15/20)

Ried Welles Sauvignon Blanc 2009

Lots of rich tropical fruit aromas here for a wine now fully evolved with lovely satin-like texture and just a hint of bitterness on the finish to give it grip and lift. Lovely wine (17/20)

Ried Welles Sauvignon Blanc 2007

Still very dynamic and has also rounded out with time but it is less expressive and smooth than the 2009

Sabotage (no idea of the price, but the label is the centre one on the photo)

This is a wine made in tiny quantities using skin maceration for 50% of the wine. It is also an association between Katherina and her boyfriend, Christoph Neumeister (another excellent producer from a bit further east), in which each contributes a barrel or so of their wine to produce this cuvée. No sulphur is added. I found the nose rather flat and inexpressive, more vegetal (onions and garlic) than fruity. It has plenty of power and character but I found it rather weird and verging on the unpleasant with a tad too much alcohol as well. Not recommended but there is so little made that you will probabbly not find it anyway.

David Cobbold



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The beauty of Sauvignon in Styria (1/2)

At the time of writing this article, I am at the end of a three day stay in the part of south-eastern Austria called Steiermark, or Styria if you prefer. Graz is the region’s capital and it’s wine sub-regions are spread out to the south, south-east and south-west of this city, the second largest of Austria. The vineyards are often on the hilly terrain of alpine foothills, with a multiple set of climatic interactions between cool winds from the north, high rainfall (around 1000 mm per annum), warmer air coming up from the Adriatic to the south and, in the summer, from the Pannonian plains to the east. If one adds into this already complex equation the constant variables provided by vineyard orientations according to local topography, you get some idea of the many factors that can alter ripening patterns, not to mention the variable soil types that will also affect the hydric balance in each vineyard site. Some, but not all, vineyard sites can be quite steep and have to be managed accordingly.

Weinbaukarte Steiermark

Styria is not a large viticultural area, even within the context of Austria which produces just 1% of the world’s wine: it currently has just over 4,600 hectares under cultivation, which means about 10% of the nation’s vineyards. Yet it has earned for itself a distinct identity based partly on the remarkable balance between tradition and modernity that shows in many fields, architecture and winemaking included, the often spectacular landscapes and, in the specific field of wine, the relative importance given to white grape varieties (78%), and in particular Sauvignon Blanc. As I have come here to judge wines from around the world made using this grape variety during two days of tastings for the Concours Mondial de Sauvignon, I found it appropriate to pay particular attention, beyond my duties as a judge with my 80 colleagues from many countries, to wines made locally from this variety. Sauvignon Blanc is primarily planted in Styria, although it can also be found in other parts of Austria. A tasting of a selection of some good Styrian wines was set up by the local winegrowers’ organization, as well as a very well-conducted and interesting visit to one of the top local producers, Lachner Tinnacher. My tasting notes of the wines tasted on the first of these occasions will follow below, together with a few comments. Another article will follow next week.

Sauvignon probably originated in France’s Loire valley and appears to be the result of a spontaneous crossing of Traminer with Chenin Blanc. It was introduced to Austria, along with several other French varietals, by the Austrian Archduke Johann in the 19th century.

Harkamp Sauvignon Blanc extra brut

Yes, they also use Sauvignon for sparkling wines here. This one works well and opens up an interesting field for other cool-climate regions and wines of the ever-expanding sparkling category. It uses the so-called traditional technique with secondary fermentation conducted in the bottle after a primary fermentation in stainless-steel tanks. It then spent 12 months ageing on its lees in the bottle. It has finesse and crisp freshness without any overtly or obtrusive varietal character and retails for around 18 euros locally. This is about the same price as a decent grower Champagne bought in France from a producer, so it is not particularly cheap. Local thirst for bubbles mean that one is unlikely to find it outside of Austria.

Maitz, Steirische Klassik Sauvignon Blanc 2017

This producer is one of a dozen that has grouped together under the STK acronym to organize their ranges of wines according to style and  price levels. The Klassik category consists of wines that are usually blended from different plots and younger vines, are made in neutral containers and sold in their youth. They are therefore the most accessible in price: 13 euros in this instance. It has good definition, restrained but ripe flavours and a fairy dry finish despite a light touch of residual sugar (2,5 grams) which is insignificant given the acidity level). Perhaps closer in style to a Loire version that to an NZ one. I liked this wine.

Strauss Classic Sauvignon Blanc 2017

Very pale in colour and too much sulphur on the nose to my liking.  This also makes it appear rather lean on the palate. Some good acidity gives it a lift, even if it veers a touch on the aggressive side. Drinkable, but hardly worth 11 euros.

Riegelnegg Olwitschhof, Sauvignon Blanc Sernauberg Roland 8° 2016

The name is a bit of a mouthful! Unfortunately one cannot say the same of the wine though. It seems diluted and reeks of those thiol-type aromas that I find too green and distasteful. Light and short.

Erwin Sabathi Sauvignon Blanc Ried Pössnitzberger Kapelle 2015

Another member of the STK association and this wine comes from a vineyard that they have classified as Grosse Ried (their version of a Grand Cru concept). It has plenty of power due to reduced yield and steep vines facing south. I loved its rich flavours that remain clear-cut despite their complexity. Intense, long and excellent. Worth keeping also. This goes way beyond your everyday Sauvignon Blanc and into the land of great white wines. 35/40 euros per bottle locally.

Gross Sauvignon Blanc Ried Nussberg 2015

A third member of the STK association in this flight and another Grosse Lage vineyard. I usually like the wines of this producer, but this bottle was a major deception. Under cork, unfortunately, and this one suffered clearly from excessive oxidation for which this form of closure most probably was the cause. God save us from corks! (38,50 euros, hopefully for a decent bottle).

Polz, Sauvignon Blanc Therese 2015

Again a member of the STK gang. This is a selective blend from several good vineyard sites. It is intense with asparagus-like aromas, good length and balance. It manages well to combine a fine sauvignon character with more power and intensity than usual.  Very nice wine although it was not served at its best place in this line-up. (20 euros)

Frauwaller Sauvignon Blanc Ried Buch 2013

Had not met with the wines of this producer before. This wine is structured and the handling of the oak seemed a bit heavy-handed. I am not at all anti-oak, but this has gone a bit far for my taste at least. I suspect that more recent vintages have brought a lighter touch. It shows intensity from the oak/alcohol combination, but the fruit is dominated. (25 euros)

Potzinger Sauvignon Blanc Reserve Sulz Joseph 2013

Smooth and ripe, still seeming very young despite its 4 plus years of age. A bit too much oak once again and a tad too much residual sugar for my taste. (25 euros). Interestingly the Austrian wine guide Falstaff gave this wine 93 points. I beg to disagree and would rather rate it at around 86.

Muster Sauvignon Blanc Grubthal 2013

This was served in a magnum and was excellent! A splendid nose, ripe, rich and complex. Loved its length and balance on the palate. Well worth the bottle price of 27 euros.

Neumeister, Sauvignon Blanc Stradener Alte Reben 2011

Yet another member of the STK association and also one of those whom I visited a couple of years ago and whose wines I very much liked at the time. The bottle of this wine is, unusually for the region, of a flute shape, like most German or Alsatian wines. It has richness, but more from its natural concentration coming from very old vines that any over-ripeness. Fine and long, with superb texture and great length. It ain’t cheap at around 60 euros, but it is very good indeed.

Tement, Sauvignon Blanc Zieregg 2011

Tement is perhaps Styria’s best-known producer, at least outside of Austria. This comes from a grosse lage vineyard and Tement is also a founder-member of the STK association. I found that, once again, the influence of oak was a little over-intrusive on the nose. The wine is rich and powerful but finishes on a dry note that lets the wood and the alcohol have the upper hand over the fruit-based flavours. Plenty of substance all the same and has otherwise lasted well. (45 euros)

Sattlerhof Sauvignon Blanc Kranachberg Trockenbeerenauslese 2013

Also a member of the STK group. This very sweet wine shows another aspect of the considerable versatility of the variety. Just 9,5% alcohol for this splendid, lusciously sweet wine that is as intense as it is long, with layers and layers of aromas and very finely integrated acidity that makes the finish very refreshing. At 31 euros for a half bottle, this is well worth every cent!

Nest week I will take you on a visit to the Lachner Tinnacher estate and draw a few conclusions about this grape variety that shows far more diversity than many people expect when faced with just the basic levels of its wines.

David Cobbold

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Central Loire Vineyards – 1990 – 2017


1990 - 2017a

The last 27 years has seen very considerably changes in the Central Loire Vineyards. With one sole exception it has been a tale of success and expansion. It is fascinating to compare the area planted in each of the Central Loire appellation in 1990 with the area planted in 2017.

An overall increase of 2451 hectares in production – a 77% increase – are the headline figures. However, the dramatic revival of appellations such as Quincy and Reuilly that in the 1970s and for much of the 1980s are perhaps the most interesting. The revival of Reuilly owes much to the late Claude Lafond, who had the vision to persuade the few producers to work together and to establish a common wine-making facility above the small town of Reuilly. It was similar in neighbouring Quincy where a common winery was built at the village of Brinay. These wineries are different from a cave co-operative. Here the producers make with guidance, keep and sell their own wine themselves. The facilities are shared but not the wine.

Equally the expansion of Menetou-Salon up by nearly 200% from 196 hectares in 1990 to 576 ha last year is impressive. Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé have seen the largest increase in terms of hectares – 1032 ha and 580ha respectively.

Pouilly-sur-Loire – 100% Chasselas – is the only appellation in decline: slipping from 56 hectares planted in 1990 to just 27 last year. Doubtless those lost hectares of Chasselas have been replanted with Sauvignon Blanc – Pouilly-Fumé is so much easier to sell.

The changes in the Central Loire are in marked contrast with the contraction in the area planted with Melon de Bourgogne for Muscadet in the Pays Nantais. In 1990 all the Muscadet appellations covered 11,280 hectares – this doesn’t include Muscadet Côtes de Grandlieu which was promoted to appellation status in 1994. At its highest point Muscadet reached some 13300 hectares. By 2016 this area had dropped to a total of 8200 ha. Of these Muscadet Sèvre et Maine accounted for 6300 ha, Côtes de Grandlieu – 230 ha, Coteaux de la Loire – 150 ha.

Even with this sharp contraction Muscadet (820 ha) is still substantially larger than the whole of the Central Vineyard combined – 5750 hectares.


Visit to FilipaP



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Looking for Flor (Vin Jaune, Xérès and Tokay Szamorodni) 1/2

No, I can assure you that Flor is not the first name of a new friend of mine.

I have just returned from a brief stay in France’s Jura region to participate in a symposium about « flor » wines: in other words wines that develop their specific style through ageing under a veil of yeast on the surface of barrels which have not been fully topped up to compensate natural evaporation. The word « flor » is Spanish for flower, as, in the case of sherries at least, the surface of the wine in the part-filled barrels looks as if flowers have grown on it. The yeast strains bloom on the surface which take on a whitish-grey veil of variable thickness. Some refer to this process as « biological ageing », as opposed to reductive or oxidative ways of ageing wines that require modification before they are fit for consumption on account of an overtly intensive structural profile of some description.

This opportunity arose thanks to an excellent initiative on the part of the Jura producers, who, like those in Cahors, consider that collaboration with producers from other countries who produce similar styles of wine to theirs can bring many positive results, rather than looking on others as just competitors to be shunned at all costs. I hope that such mentalities and ideas will gain ground in the future. In any case, judging by the numbers of specialist journalists who came especially for this symposium (English, French, Belgians and Swiss were there), one could say that the organisers have marked some points. The symposium was preceeded by a tasting which brought together quite a large number of vins jaunes, the local flor wine, as well as a couple of very good producers of Sherry and an excellent producer of a Tokay Szamorodni made also under a yeast veil. The timing was set to coincide with the annual festivities surrounding the traditional Percée du Vin Jaune, some of whose more folklore-filled aspects I witnessed. I was also able to participate in the annual Vin Jaune competition called clavelinage, which serves to awards medals to the vins jaunes that the jury members esteem to be the best representatives of the latest vintages of this very singular style of wine.

Flor in a Sherry butt

I say singular, because these wines produce aromas and flavours that not everyone likes, at least spontaneously and without a form of apprenticeship that few are prepared to undertake. After all, put simply, why should one suffer in order to learn to appreciate something? I would beg to differ from this postulate, but, in our individualistic world of instant gratification, efforts to overcome a natural resistance, whether physical or mental, are not always welcomed with open arms. I can clearly testify to the aversion that the vast majority of wine drinkers have for this style of wine since, whenever I serve a Vin Jaune or a dry Sherry to students in one of my classes, almost all of them wrinkle their noses in an expression of distaste and sometimes even ask if all is right with the wine! The appreciation of the aromas and flavours of a dry Sherry or a Vin Jaune are clearly acquired by a certain amount of practice, which obviously favours natives of the Jura region in France, as well as Spanish or even English people, the latter two having traditionally consumed large quantities of Sherry. Conversions to these flavours are rare, it must be said, but those who become converted are often fanatical, as befits such patterns. According to Samuel Tinon, who showed his Tokay Szamorodnis at this symposium, Brooklyn NYC is the latest terre d’accueil for his wines.

Some other countries and regions produce tiny amounts of wines of this type, but they are rare. What was particularly interesting in the presentations that each country or producer gave after the morning’s tasting session was to learn how local climatic conditions, constraints and production techniques have produced differences in the wines and the way in which they evolve. The Sherry production region is dry and hot, with a strong oceanic influence from the Atlantic. Its bodegas are above the ground with very high ceilings to allow the air to circulate. The flor here is usually quite thick and helps to slow down evaporation. Unlike the other two regions for flor wines, Sherries are fortified, even if lightly, after the fermentation, but from a wine with lower alcohol levels than that of the savagnin in the Jura. The Jura has high rainfall and generally cool temperatures, and its cellars are smaller. The flor is much thinner on the whole. Partly through concentration over time, and partly through the character of the late-ripening Savagnin grape, the alcohol levels of the finished vin jaune are usually very close to those of a Fino or Manzanilla Sherry (I saw 14,5 and even 15% on some labels). The Tokay region is very humid and warmer, but the cellars are underground and low. And so on. The intensity and thickness of the flor is different in each case, as are the results of the ageing process, and these differences have multiple causes, including market pressures and production habits.

As this photo shows perhaps, flor on Vin Jaune tends to be somewhat thinner than on Sherry

Now for some notes on my favourite wines in the tasting on the day of the symposium.

1). Vin Jaune

For those unfamiliar with the wines of the Jura region, several appellations may produce this type of wine in the region: Côtes de Jura, Arbois, Etoile and Château Chalon. The latter appellation only produces Vin Jaune. In all cases it has to be made from 100% Savagnin blanc (sometimes called Traminer) and cannot be bottled before December, six years after the harvest date, having spent at least five years in small barrels. It must not then be sold before January 1st seven years after the harvest, and can only be bottled in a bottle of a special shape and size (62 cl), called a clavelin.

Vins Jaunes vintage 2010

André & Jean-François Michel, Côtes du Jura

Very old-style label, for those who like that sort of thing, complete with coat of arms and gothic script titles. Yet the wine is anything but dusty: on the contrary, it seems fresh and alert, still showing some fruit-based flavours and is not over-dry on the finish. Very pleasant in this style. This wine did not appear in the catalogue and thus I cannot provide its retail price, which is probably around 25 euros.

Fruitière Vinicole d’Arbois, Arbois

Another local feature in the Jura region is the role and the quality of the cooperative wineries, known curiously as « fruitières ». Lots of complexity on the nose with aromas of dried fruit and nuts. Very nicely balanced, very fresh and with some lingering fruit flavours. Excellent. (30 euros)

Rolet Père et Fils, Arbois

Very nutty on the nose. Lots of freshness on the palate and a general impression of controlled power. This producer is one of the most regular in the region and for all styles of white wines. (30 euros)


Fruitière de Voiteur, Château Chalon

Nice level of complexity on the nose. Good substance and balance between fruit, acidity and a slightly phenological character that one often finds in such wines. This has plenty of power and length without the alcohol showing too much. Another excellent cooperative producer. (29,50 euros)


Domaine Baud, Côtes de Jura

A pleasant nose in a style rather similar to that of a Fino Sherry. Lots of freshness for this dynamic wine and a slighty chewy texture that shows a touch of bitterness on the finish. (29 euros)


Château d’Arlay, Côtes de Jura

This fine historical domain is another regular top performer of the region. This particular wine will need a bit of time to express itself fully but it has all the necessary qualities, with good freshness and balance (38 euros).



Although not all producers from the region were showing their wines here, some other producers showed decent wines in this 2010 vintage that some tasters might prefer to my pick: Fruitière Pupillin (Arbois), Domaine de Savagny (Côtes de Jura), and Domaine de la Renardière (Arbois). The others I liked much less or had some defects.

There were also some other flor wines from the Jura on show, which were younger and so do not qualify for the Vin Jaune appellation. My favourite wines from this group were those of Jean-Louis Tissot (Arbois Savagnin 2014), of Domaine Montbourgeau (Etoile, cuvée spéciale 2014) and of André Bonnot (Côtes de Jura Savagnin 2014).

Next week I will tell you about the Sherries and the Tokay Szamorodnis and give you some more technical information from the conferences as well as mentioning the excellent ageing potential of these wines as there were some examples of older Vins Jaunes that I tasted.


David Cobbold




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A Bordeaux outing

The starting point: an informal tasting of some 1998’s at Château Soutard

It’s been a while since I last decided to make a short trip into a wine region in a fairly improvised manner, by which I mean with no particular plan and just the idea of having fun and learning something. After a couple of days teaching groups of MBA students at the INSEEC school in Bordeaux, and thanks to an invitation from Château Soutard in Saint Emilion, this short trip started in the evening with this very enjoyable and interesting tasting of 6 wines from the 1998 vintage, 5 of them from the Bordeaux right bank, plus a sort of joker from Australia, Penfolds Bin 707, a pure Cabernet Sauvignon. No notion of competition here, just the pleasure and interest of tasting, semi-blind, the wines shown below. Only the Bin 707 was served from an uncovered bottle, the others were served in decanters.

Château Soutard has been magnificently restored by its new owners, La Mondiale, since 2006. It certainly helps to have a solid budget available when restoring one of the region’s finest houses! The idea of this tasting germinated during an informal discussion a few weeks ago between Véronique Corporandy, cellar-master at Soutard, Thomes Duclos, the estate’s consultant enologist from Oeno Team, Ludovic Martin, a wine merchant from Saint Emilion, and myself. I said that I would bring a different 1998 as a contribution and I was lucky enough to get my hands on a bottle of Penfolds Bin 707 for the occasion. They wanted Grange 1998, but it seems pretty much unattainable these days and in any case I thought that it made more sense to bring a wine made with a Bordeaux grape variety. For the tasting during dinner organized thanks to M et Mme de Villaines, the hosts at Soutard, we were joined by Olivier Brunel, the estate’s vineyard manager.

The wines, apart from the Australian, were all from Saint Emilion and Pomerol. The idea was to see how each had fared over almost 20 years since their vintage, and what they tasted like now. I won’t give you any long tasting notes here for two reasons. Firstly, as I said, this tasting took place during dinner and I don’t find it easy to make detailed notes on such occasions. Secondly I tend to find such long notes rather fastidious, too personal and, finally, not very useful. I will just mention the general profile of the wines with some other comments. The order of these notes corresponds to the order of service. As I have already said, the first five wines were served blind.

The wines in their order of serving, from left to right

Cadet Piola 1998, Saint Emilion

Pronounced aromas of plums and prunes, still quite intense with some tannic presence and good freshness. A pleasant surprise.

Larmande 1998 (magnum), Saint Emilion

Very pleasant and softish nose, still edged with its oak upbringing. Fine, with good fruit character and some power behind that. The magnum surely makes it seem younger than its age and confirms the feeling that wines for long keeping should be bought in large bottles when possible. I have some magnums of the 1986 vintage from this estate and I think that I should be opening them soon.

Lafleur 1998, Pomerol

This is a lovely wine, with enormous finesse and was clearly my favourite of this tasting (and that of many of the other tasters also I think).  Very fresh and elegant, fine and long on the palate. An extremely stylish wine, quite delicious to drink now. It has that lift and delicacy that I cannot remember tasting in any other Pomerol apart from Vieux Château Certan. But I am not a specialist on Pomerols (or on much else for that matter!).

Soutard 1998, Saint Emilion

This was a disappointment. Rather oxidized and tired. The new owners would surely not have produced this!

La Fleur Petrus 1998, Pomerol

Quite rich but rather more ordinary than La Fleur, the other Pomerol in this series. It has aged well however and will clearly last for longer.

 Penfolds Bin 707 Cabernet Sauvignon, South Australia

This bottle was closed, perfectly it must be said, with a cork. It shows more density, warmth and intensity of fruit flavours than all the others. Still very young and, comparatively speaking, on the massive side. Could easily last for another 20 years and would be my choice if one was looking at that perspective.

Stage 2 : across the water to Dompierre in the Médoc

The next day I had decided to visit an old acquaintance, Michel Aroldi, whom I had not seen since a memorable tasting and evening at Château Plein Point in Fronsac back in 2007 during Vinexpo, together with a bunch of his winemaker friends including the late, lamented Didier Dagueneau. Aroldi has since sold his Fronsac estate, partially because he wanted to make wines from Cabernet Sauvignon (so maybe I should have taken the Bin 707 to him?). So he moved across the estuary and found an otherwise run-down estate but with a fully restored dwelling house near Saint Laurent, with 11 hectares of vines that are spread between three appellations: Médoc, Haut-Médoc and Pauillac. Michel is largely self-taught and pretty inventive in terms of wine making so I was very curious to see what he has done with his beloved Cabernet.

Michel Aroldi in some of his vines, with a view of the Gironde estuary in the background

The man has firm ideas about what he wants from a wine, and these are based around one essential ingredient: the quality and ripeness of its fruit flavours. To achieve this he works with a number of guiding principles. The soils are tilled and only organic fertilizers are used. The vines are pruned low and bunches never receive any sprays. Grapes are hand-picked into 10 kilogram boxes before being transported to the winery in refrigerated trucks at 3°C and then cold-stored before sorting on modern sorting tables after de-stemming. Both fermentation and ageing take place in oak vats (no stainless steel tanks or barrels are used) which are renewed every four years on average. CO2 is extensively used to avoid any oxidation and to reduce sulphur input. This also creates a pressurized environment during fermentation to avoid pumping-over. The pressure makes the juice bubble up to the top of the vat by itself and the cap is maintained within the juice by a loose grid and a slightly conical shape to the wooden vats. Only yeasts present in the cellar are used. Pre-bottling holding tanks are of concrete and are temperature controlled, causing cold precipitation of soldids and thus avoiding both fining and filtering. Sulphur levels are minimal.

His vineyard plots are spread out, deliberately he says, in oder to find the best in each appellation. One of the proofs of their good situation is that they escaped frost damage in 2017, due to the proximity of his vines to the Gironde estuary.

Once again, I cannot at this stage write detailed tasting notes as we tasted the wines during a delicious lunch of pigeon breasts, but I can give a general idea or two of the style. Three wines are produced: the Medoc, from 2015 onwards, is called Les Charmes Dompierre, the Haut-Médoc, La Croix Dompierre and the Pauillac, Dompierre.

Les Charmes de Dompierre 2015, Médoc

(retail price around 12 euros. 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot)

Good fruit, already very drinkable without any invasive tannins which seem, on the contrary, very well integrated. It has the warm feeling of wines from this vintage that helps in its charm without being in any way too much.

La Croix Dompierre 2014, Médoc (this wine will be a Haut-Médoc as from 2015)

(retail price 20 euros. 85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot)

I did not make any notes for this. Sorry!

Dompierre 2013, Pauillac

(retail price 50/60 euros. 100% Cabernet Sauvignon)

What a performance to make this in 2013! Full-bodied and yet very fresh, glorious fruit and perfect balance. Must be one of the best wines from this region and vintage that I have tasted.

I must admit to another shared passion with Michel: Italian motorcycles. Both of us are riders and also past and present owners of various models of Moto Guzzis and Ducatis. I am currently pondering an Aprilia if I can sell my Norton Commando. Any offers out there?

This was a very promising introduction to these wines and I look forward to tasting them in more detail and with more attention in the future. I would recommend anyone to look out for them as they are clearly boxing some way above their respective categories!

Oh, and it rained all the time I was down in and around Bordeaux, almost for five days solid. By all accounts the water tables, which were dangerously low, have been restored. Driving along vineyard tracks between the bleak stumpy vines, winding my way back to the estuary from Saint Laurent, the water in the ditches was almost up to the tracks in many places and I had some fun slaloming between the potholes. Everyone in the vineyard is now hoping for a good shot of cold weather and praying that the frosts do not come later again.

David Cobbold

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Cairanne, 3 portraits et photos

À Cairanne, depuis que j’arpente le vignoble, il y a trois domaines que j’ai toujours préférés pour leur qualité, leur constance et le caractère de leurs vins. Ce qui ne veut pas dire que d’autres domaines ne font pas le poids, comme le Domaine des Amadieu, Roche, Delubac, Denis Alary… Mais les trois ci-dessous sont, sans ordre de préférence, mes favoris.

L’Oratoire Saint Martin


De pères en fils, dix générations se sont succédées au domaine. Aujourd’hui, ce sont Frédéric et François Alary qui sont à la tête des 25 ha de vignes; et se remettent chaque année en question. Rien n’est jamais définitif, tout est recherche constante, avec pour seul objectif : obtenir la vendange de qualité et dans la foulée, tout simplement un vin qui correspond au terroir. Les parcelles situées en majorité au nord-est des collines avec large vue sur le Plan de Dieu, les Dentelles de Montmirail et le Ventoux, voilà un panorama qui sans nul doute aide à faire de l’excellence. Et ce reflet du sol et de son environnement se retrouve élégamment dans la cuvée Haut Coustias, qui assemble une majorité de Mourvèdre à des proportions presque égale de Grenache et de Syrah. Nez de garrigue où flotte un parfum de genêt et de feuille de figuier. La bouche fraîche qui austère dans les premièrs temps se donne chaque année un peu plus. La garrigue se transforme en saveurs épicées soulignées de réglisse, maculées de fruits rouges, toujours en carrure, mais la main généreuse, prompte à nous offrir quelques un rien de cannelle, un grain de sel, un noyau, une note de menthol, en plus. Quant au blanc Haut Coustias, fait de 40% de Marsanne, 40% de Roussanne, 10% de Clairette et 10% de Grenache, il plaît d’emblée par ses notes de miel de thym, d’aiguilles de pin, de bruyère, de sirop de poire et d’abricot sec. Par sa bouche onctueuse parfumée de rose, rafraîchie de citron confit, épicée de safran, à l’impression légèrement tannique, à la finale sur l’anis. Élevage 12 mois en barriques.


Domaine Marcel Richaud

Une belle histoire…

Quand la succession est assurée, quelle peut être meilleure récompense pour le projet de toute une vie ? Marcel a toujours incarné l’excellence, le mieux que ce que pouvait exprimer les terroirs de Cairanne. Avec, bien entendu, des recherches continues, rien n’est jamais fini, tout est toujours perfectible. Pas dans la quête d’un absolu, chimère ridicule, mais plus dans l’interprétation la plus juste de ce que peut exprimer le raisin issu de telle ou telle parcelle. L’homme interprète le terroir et Marcel est loin de chanter faux. Et voilà que son fils, et puis sa fille aînée, le premier à la vigne, la seconde à la cave, rejoignent père et mère et s’allouent dans la foulée les rennes du domaine. Un passage réussi démontré par la dégustation des vins. Ces derniers bénéficient aujourd’hui d’un assemblage supplémentaire qui combine les sensibilités des enfants et des parents. Cairanne blanc ou rouge, offrent cette même texture veloutée, la fraîcheur du fruit, la délicatesse des épices. Quant à L’Ebrescade, jeune, il mélange fraise confite à la chair de bigarreau, saveur saline et tanins au caractère un rien sauvage. Et puis après quelques années, le cacao apparaît, les épices se précisent, les tanins commencent à s’assagir, mais pas trop, ils préfèrent garder au vin son caractère farouche, mais pas dénué de générosité.

Domaine Laurent Brusset (pour changer, je vous ai mis le portrait écrit par Hervé, le mien ayant déjà été mis ici en ligne)

Ce domaine familial de 70 ha se répartit entre 5 AOC :  Rasteau, Gigondas, Ventoux, Côtes-du-Rhône et Cairanne. Maintes fois épinglé, pas une année ne passe sans qu’un de ses vins ne sorte en dégustation, il est aujourd’hui dans les mains de Laurent, troisième génération de cette famille vigneronne.

Cairanne, où la cave est située, est au cœur de la gamme : Laurent en propose pas moins de 5 cuvées, tantôt d’assemblage (Les Travers, en blanc et en rouge), tantôt parcellaires (Les Chabrilles, l’Esprit de Papet). Et vous l’avez compris, il n’y a rien à jeter. Au point qu’il nous fut difficile de sélectionner une cuvée.

Nous avons craqué pour Les Travers 2016 qui, sous l’ancien nom du domaine, assemble garrigue et terres d’Aigues, haut et bas de l’appellation en un mariage tout en équilibre – force et souplesse, fruit et épices.

Et puis, aussi, la cuvée « Hommage à André Brusset », toujours dans le millésime 2016. Encore très jeune, ce vin de raisins non éraflés est à la fois dense et très fin, très typé, avec ses notes de prune, de fumé et d’épices, et sa bouche opulente, juteuse et sapide. Il assemble vieux grenache (80 ans) et mourvèdre.


Cairanne aujourd’hui Cru, ne peut rêver de meilleurs ambassadeurs.




3 Commentaires

Sélection gourmande du Roussillon, de quoi trouver quelques vins pour les fêtes

Les vins du Roussillon n’arrêtent pas de nous offrir de belles surprises, que ce soit en simple Côtes du Roussillon, en VDN ou comme ici en Côtes du Roussillon Villages et en Crus. Et même ces hauts de gamme taillés pour la garde restent abordables, tant au point de vue du plaisir qu’ils nous procurent qu’en rapport qualité/prix. Voici notre sélection du moment.


Une poignée de blancs

Un beau triplé pour cette Collioure, une AOC qui englobe les blancs depuis 2002.

 Chrysopée 2016 Collioure Domaine Bila-Haut


Vert doré lumineux, il se parfume de citron vert aux accents délicats de vanille et de poivre blanc. Le croquant des fruits, agrumes certes, mais aussi poire et carambole réjouit les papilles. La fraîcheur presque vive souligne les arômes d’un trait minéral. La longueur nous parle des épices qui poudrent les fruits.

Assemblage de 90 % de Grenache gris et 10 % de Grenache blanc qui poussent sur des sols de schistes. Élevage de 6 mois en demi-muids avec des bâtonnages sur lies les deux premiers mois.



Les Canadells 2016 Collioure Domaine de la Tour Vieille


La robe dorée aux reflets vertes, doré de soleil comme le citron confit qui parfume le nez. Outre l’agrume, l’angélique, la figue blanche et l’olive verte se sont vues traiter de la même sorte. Mais oublions le traitement pour un moment respirer la note océane d’iode, l’autre terrestre de schistes éclatés mouillés d’embruns, à la fois légères et intenses, elles marquent toutes deux les papilles de leur empreinte minérale. C’est alors un jus frais qui coule en bouche, inondant le palais de saveurs florales et fruitées qui imbibent la texture légèrement ligneuse du vin.

Assemblage de 25% de Grenache Blanc, 25% Grenache gris, 10% Roussanne, 20% Macabeu, 20% Vermentino qui poussent sur la portion congrue des schistes à peine dégradé en surface. Pressurage direct des Grenache Gris et macération pelliculaire pour les autres. Fermentation en barriques pour 30% de la cuvée avec bâtonnages réguliers. Élevage sur lies jusqu’à la mise.


Inspiration Minérale 2016 Collioure Domaine Saint Sébastien


Vert jaune, un nez aux allures de citron confit, de bergamote et de fruits jaunes soulignés d’une pincée de curcuma et de poivre blanc. La bouche fraîche fait penser à une tarte au citron, mêlant vivacité et croquant, tressant suavité et amertume. La note acidulée nous accompagne du début à la fin mettant en évidence les agrumes, la pêche, l’abricot, le melon qui se confisent et transforment la tarte en cassate.

Assemblage de 90% de Grenache Gris et 10% de Grenache Blanc. Pressurage direct des raisins et vinification en 400 L à 18°C. Batonnage quotidien durant 15 jours dès la fin de la fermentation. Élevage de 1 an en 400 L neufs.


Une fournée de rouges


Les Collioure rouges gardent ce caractère iodé qui leur est particulier, un don de la Méditerranée et de ses embruns salés…

La Pinède 2016 Collioure Domaine de la Tour Vieille


Rubis pourpre, le nez nous annonce tout de suite des senteurs de fruits noirs où l’on reconnaît la figue fraîche, le cassis et le raisin dont la note de muscat nous rappelle celui de Hambourg. Des effluves d’embruns iodés se mêlent aux fragrances fruitées, des épices orientales aussi. La bouche nous ravit par la rondeur pointue de ses tanins qui s tissent comme soie sauvage, fraîche et juteuse. On oscille ici entre austérité et gourmandise.

Assemblage de 60% de Grenache noir, 30% de Mourvèdre et 10% de Carignan qui poussent dans des schistes. Macération longue et élevage en cuve.


Arqueta 2015 Collioure Famille Lafage

 Grenat carminé, la fraise noire et la mûre nous accueillent, suivies d’olives et de dates fraîches, de fruits épicés de soleil et de cardamome. La bouche à la texture onctueuse, nous charme par son ampleur. Fruits et épices envahissent le palais, aidés de leur fraîcheur, ils s’installent sans vergogne pour notre plus grand bonheur. Un vin riche et puissant, au caractère généreux.

Assemblage de 70% de Grenache noir, 10% de Syrah, 5% de Carignan et 5% de Grenache gris qui poussent dans des schistes bruns délités et friables. Vinification des 4 cépages dans la même cuve à 25°C et macération de 4 semaines. Élevage de 6 mois en barriques bourguignonnes.


Côtes du Roussillon Villages Latour de France

Terroir de schistes qui donne au vins un tempérament sévère qu’il faut dépasser pour en évaluer toute la générosité.

 SD 2016 Côtes du Roussillon Villages Latour de France Domaine Rancy

Grenat cramoisi, le nez nous entraîne tout de go dans la garrigue où le pistachier térébinthe domine le thym et la sauge, un peu de jus d’arbouse vient teinter les romarins en fleurs. La bouche préfère le caractère lapidaire de la cagnasse qui pousser les plantes aromatiques respirées. Une austérité qui s’assagit grâce au jus délicat des mûres et myrtille, à la maturité des tanins certes serrés.

Assemblage de 45% de Mourvèdre, 35% de Carignan et 20% de Grenache qui poussent dans des schistes bruns. Macération de 3 semaines. Élevage en cuve béton.


Côtes du Roussillon Villages Les Aspres

Le dernier né des Côtes du Roussillon Villages aime transcrire son sol de galets et de cailloutis calcaires dans ses vins. Des vins souvent sauvages mais les meilleurs sont d’une élégance folle.

Les Pierres Plates 2015 Côtes du Roussillon Villages Les Aspres Terrassous


Grenat cramoisi, le nez nous charme par ses petits airs de fruits rouges, marmelade de fraises noires et de framboises, mélangées de figues poivrées. La bouche, élégante, reprend les fruits sentis, les rafraîchit d’agrumes et les souligne de réglisse et de poivre. Les tanins délicats ne font aucune entrave au déroulement fruité. Un vin raffiné.

Assemblage de 67% de Syrah, 17% de Grenache et 16% de Mourvèdre qui poussent dans des sols de schistes ou d’éclats calcaires. Macération de 3 semaines. Fermentation malolactique en fût. Élevage en fûts renouvelés dont un tiers de neufs.


Cana 2016 Côtes du Roussillon Villages Les Aspres Domaine Ferrer Ribière


Rubis noir, un nez de pierre qui demande patience pour nous livrer quelques bribes de fruits, d’épices, mais aussi de fleurs. Un peu comme une rose ancienne qui pousserait entre les cailloux, les pétales maculés de jus de cassis et de cerise, ombrés de muscade et de cumin. La bouche répond, tanin en tête, à l’impression austère qui semble ne rien vouloir abandonner. Il faut l’amadouer, le faire dans le verre tourner, pour qu’enfin, il nous révèle quelques tournures fruitées, mais toujours bien épicées. Un vin au caractère fort.

Assemblage de 45% de Mourvèdre, 45% de Syrah et de 10% de Grenache. Élevage en demi‐muid.


Léa 2015 Côtes du Roussillon Villages Les Aspres Domaine Lafage


Grenat sombre, des feuilles de figuiers enveloppent le nez, puis une de tomate, puis libéré, il respire la prune noire et la canneberge nuancé de menthe fraîche. La bouche, elle, offre un jus savoureux, groseilles, framboise et cassis s’en donnent à cœur joie et comblent les papilles de leurs fragrances délicates, mais insistantes. Tanins élégants et fraîcheur subtile renforcent l’impression de bien-être. Un vin des plus sympas.

Assemblage de 50% de Grenache, de 30% de Carignan et de 20% de Syrah qui poussent en terrasses suivant les courbes de niveau à 400 m d’altitude. Les jus sont écoulés en barriques bourguignonnes et s’y élèvent durant 15 mois.


Maury sec

 Sec… pour bien faire le distinguo avec le bien connu VDN issu du même terroir. Richesse du fruit et structure bien ancrée sont le dénominateur commun de ces vins.

Kerbuccio 2015 Maury sec Château Saint-Roch


Pourpre violacé, le nez explose comme une grenade qui disperse ses parfums légèrement fumés mélangés de fraises, de mûres et de figues. La bouche semble douce et sage, mais c’est trop vite oublier la force des baies qui imposent rapidement leurs fragrances fruitées. Elles se soulignent d’épices et de plantes de garrigue où la sauge et le cade les imprègnent de leur amertume racée. Un vin au caractère bien trempé.

Assemblage de 60% de Grenache, 35% de Syrah et 5% de Mourvèdre d’un âge moyen de 50 ans qui poussent dans les schistes et les marnes noirs. Macération de 4 à 5 semaines. Un tiers du vin est élevé en 500L durant 6 à 9 mois, le reste en cuve ciment.


N vers le Nord 2016 Maury sec Mas Amiel


Rubis sanguin, des notes délicates de fruits rouges sautent au nez, en colorant le bout de framboise, de cerise et de groseille. Cela donne tout de go une impression de fraîcheur. Fraîcheur que la bouche confirme. Elle se répand, juteuse, maculant la soie tannique des fruits sentis, y ajoutant quelques brins de lavande, histoire de rendre le vin encore plus élégant. C’est joyeux.

Assemblage de 90% de Grenache et 10% de Syrah qui poussent dans des schistes gréseux, des calcaires bleutés et des argiles. Élevage en cuve béton.


Initial 2015 Maury sec Mas Amiel


Violet pourpre, le nez un peu fumé, grillé comme un marron, poivré et fortement souligné de réglisse. Le fruit, c’est pour après. De la figue, de la datte, des prunelles, de la pêche de vigne, se révèlent in extremis. En bouche, c’est pareil, le toasté, les tanins serrés, l’amer, parlent en premier, puis se font inonder par le jus et le charnu des fruits. Un jus qui coule sur l’assise minérale, en gomme le relief cristallin, en efface le caractère sévère, pour nous laisser que le plaisir du fruit délicatement épicé. Un vin complexe.

Assemblage de Grenache, de Syrah et de Carignan qui poussent dans des schistes. Élevage de 10 mois pour 10% en cuve bois et 90% en cuve béton.


Le plus marrant…

Nous sommes partis du même échantillonnage de trente vins fournis par le Bureau d’Information des Vins du Roussillon à Bruxelles que nos confrères du supplément Essentiel Vino, qui est un encarté de quotidiens belges. A l’arrivée, cependant, si l’on trouve quelques rares dénominateurs communs (ils sont en italiques dans la liste ci-après), il y a aussi beaucoup de vins différents dans nos sélections respectives. Voici la leur (la nôtre est parue dans In Vino Veritas).


Mas Lavail, Initiale, AOC Maury sec 2014

Mas Amiel Initial, AOC Maury sec 2015

Kar Magna, Vignerons Catalans, Côtes du Roussillon Villages Caramany 2016

Domaine Modat, Sans plus attendre, Côtes du Roussillon Villages Caramany 2015 (Bio)

Domaine Lafage, Léa Côtes du Roussillon Les Aspres 2015

Domaine des 3 Vallées, Côtes du Roussillon Villages Tautavel 2015

Château Mauléon, Vieilles vignes Syrah, Carignan, Grenache, Domaines Auriol, Côtes du Roussillon Villages Caramany 2015

Domaine de l’Edre, Carrément rouge, Côtes du Roussillon Villages Tautavel 2016

Rocher des Buis, AOC Maury sec 2014, Les Vignerons de Tautavel-Vingrau,

Les Pierres Plates, Terrassous, Côtes du Roussillon Les Aspres 2015


Clos Saint-Sébastien, Empreintes, AOC Collioure 2016

Domaine La Tour Vieille, Les Canadells, AOC Collioure

Ce qu’il y a de bien, autant pour les producteurs que pour l’Interpro, c’est qu’à nous deux, on sort presque toute la sélection!